Exploring the island of Rügen by bike is an absolute pleasure and, in my experience, one of the best ways to see its varied landscapes. The island offers around 800 kilometres of cycling tracks, though their quality does vary from smooth asphalt paths to more uneven stretches. Despite Rügen’s reputation for being relatively flat, I found it more undulating than expected, with some climbs that certainly get the heart rate up. The ascents to the Jagdschloss Granitz and the famous chalk cliffs at the Königsstuhl, in particular, can be surprisingly sweaty affairs.
Continue reading “Cycling on Rügen”Rasender Roland
The Rasender Roland is Rügen’s most charming little icon, a steam-hauled narrow-gauge railway that still feels gloriously out of step with the modern world. It has been running since 1895 and links Putbus with the island’s seaside resorts at a relaxed 30 km/h, which is exactly why the journey is part of the pleasure rather than merely a means of getting somewhere.
Continue reading “Rasender Roland”Circus
The Circus in Putbus is one of the most striking town spaces on Rügen: a perfectly round square framed by elegant white classical buildings, with a disciplined, almost theatrical symmetry that gives it a calm and refined feel. At its centre stands a tall obelisk, while paths and lawns radiate outwards in a neat pattern, so the whole place feels both formal and airy rather than crowded or ornamental. The effect is of a planned landscape in which architecture and open space are meant to be experienced together.
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