Dr. Stefan Christmann

November 3, 2024December 30, 2024

Unfinished mosque

When leaving the medina of Rabat to the southeast you can find an unusual building conglomerate on a hill: the unfinished minaret of an unfinished mosque next to the mausoleum of Mohammed V. A tower with a large field of columns next to an important grave. In the 12th century CE, Yaqub al-Mansur, the ruler of the Almohad empire requested the construction of the largest mosque in all Maghreb states. When he died in 1199 CE the construction works were stopped immediately and you can still see that state today.

November 3, 2024December 30, 2024

Kasbah des Oudaïas

The most beautiful place at Rabat is the Kasbah des Oudaïas. In fact, it is a combination of two kasbahs created by two different Moroccan dynasties to protect the city from pirates and serving as a royal seat. Directly at the ocean you can discover the old kasbah which is today a residential area filled with restaurants and touristy shops. You can climb up between the houses to the bélvèdere giving you great views on the ocean and the river. It is easy to imagine how this was once a military facility to protect the city. You can enter and leave this place through the historic Bab des Oudaïas gate.

November 3, 2024November 29, 2024

Riad Zyo

Once you reach the medina of Rabat you’ll see that it is entirely surrounded by an ancient city wall. The streets within are mostly traffic-free (with the exception of the Avenue Laalou passing between medina and necropolis), which gives you a nice experience while walking through the old town but also challenges you with the question of how to reach your guesthouse. The Riad Zyo is pretty easy to recht: after passing the Bab Laalou you only need to walk some meters on the Avenue Mohammad V and then turn right into the Rue Moreno. A small plaque at the wall will signal you that you’ve reached your destination.

November 3, 2024December 30, 2024

En train

When I decided to visit multiple cities in Morocco I also took the decision to do the round trip by train. It is a pleasure you can’t have in many countries, but in this case you see the strong influence of the French colonialization: the high-speed trains are the same model like the TGV trains at France and the doors even close two minutes prior to departure like only in France. The rail network is suitably good, the stations have a great quality, you can buy tickets online upfront and travelling with locals and foreigners through the country is an absolutely nice experience.

November 2, 2024December 30, 2024

Here’s looking at you kid

The city of Casablanca is two-faced: first of all it is the economic powerhouse of Morocco. If it is about business in Morocco, it is most probably at Casablanca. That’s a factor that shapes the modern parts of the city and influences infrastructure. From a touristic point of view, the city attracts visitors with something virtual, an illusion created far in the past. If you say the name Casablanca all around the world people immediately see Humphrey Bogart and Ingrid Bergmann sitting at Rick’s Café in Casablanca struggling with the German influence on the Vichy-regime-controlled Morocco during World War II.

November 2, 2024January 2, 2025

Arabic

Morocco is a multi-language country. As parts of it were Spanish and French protectorates until 1956 you can use these languages while travelling. Especially in the north nearly everyone understands French. Official languages are (Moroccan) Arab (المملكة المغربية) and the berber language Tamazight (ⵜⴰⴳⵍⴷⵉⵜ ⵏ ⵍⵎⴰⵖⵔⵉⴱ) – two languages with a unique characterset typically undecipherable by Europeans; but typically signs are tri-lingual.

November 2, 2024January 2, 2025

Villa des Artes

There aren’t too many places in Morocco to see contemporary art, especially local contemporary art. The one place I liked most is the Villa des Artes at Casablanca, located in an art déco villa build in 1934 close to the Parque de la Ligue Arabe. it is not a vast museum, but a beautiful building with two floors full of artworks by current Moroccan artists. While I was visiting the museum a large tent in the garden even extended the available exhibition space.

November 2, 2024January 2, 2025

Mosquée Hassan-II

The modern mosque of Casablanca is an unreal place. You wouldn’t expect such a vast building in a city like Casablanca which isn’t even one of the former capital cities of Morocco. When standing in front of this giant house of prayer made for 25,000 worshippers directly at the sea you can’t be anything else then impressed: it is one of the largest mosques in the world and its minaret is the second highest ever built.

November 2, 2024January 2, 2025

Habbous

The medina of Casablanca has unfortunately been destroyed by the earthquake of Lisboa in 1755. Most historic sights have been lost and the city has received a more modern style since then. A great place to explore is in fact the second medina which is called Habbous. It dates back to the year 1916 when a Moroccan Jewish merchant donated the land to the king. As the king wasn’t allowed to receive a donation from a Jew (antisemitism can unfortunately be found in many places), the donation was redirected to a new foundation. This Habbous foundation created a special city quarter with low-price housing the cannot be sold by the inhabitants.

November 1, 2024January 2, 2025

Dirham

The Dirham is the historic Arab silver coin unit introduced in the year 698 CE. Some countries in the world still use this name as a reference to that and one of them is the Moroccan Dirham (MAD), with prices often shown with the abbreviation Dh. The MAD is not freely convertible. You can’t get it outside of the country, even importing and exporting it is forbidden. A maximum amount of 1,000 MAD (a bit less then 100 Euros) is typically accepted at the border.