Is this Africa?

That was one of the very good questions my first tour guide at Casablanca discussed with me. A question that is easy to answer geographically, but culturally? At Morocco, the Arabic history mixes up with Portuguese, French and Spanish influence. It is a country oriented pretty much towards Europe but with a fascinating past and heritage that makes a tour through the North African country an endeavour that one must do once in a lifetime.

I had just in the middle of the year set my foot on African soil for the very first time in South Africa and I was keen to also see a country in the North. Via a booking platform on the Internet I got in contact with a travel agency (RIF Planete) at Tánger which booked my a trip (mostly) by train through the country – a great option as the railway system has been influence by the French and is in surprisingly good shape. Plus you have the chance to get in contact with a lot of locals and fellow travellers while sitting on a train for some hours.

Maybe it was a bit unusual, but my trip didn’t start at Marrakech, it began at Casablanca. A city that still attracts people by its movie-based fame. The old medina has lost its historic charme by the earthquake of Lisboa and the city is now the economic powerhouse of the country. But it is very much worth to be visited nevertheless: because of the second medina (called Habbous) and the crazy large mosque named after former ruler Hassan II. That is also something you’ve got the get used to: everything is named after a rule and the typical names for rulers in the latest past have been Mohammed and Hassan

From Casablanca I went by high-speed train to Rabat and enjoyed the nice medina as well as the Kasbah directly next to the ocean. The Andalusian garden may well be one of the most beautiful places the capital city has to offer. But it is also fascinating to continue to the unfinished mosque with the Hassan tower and the mausoleum of Mohammed V, all in one place. And from there you can enjoy views on the modern Rabat: with the grand theatre designed by Zaha Hadid and the very modern Tour Mohammed VI used for banking business.

From Rabat it was only a short train ride to Meknès, another former royal city and a very good chance to learn about the typical structures of these. I walked with my tour guide that seemed to know everyone in town through the streets of the medina and with the Place Lakhim it was the very first time observing the concept of a central square connecting all parts of a city, being not only a market place by also a stage for jugglers and artists. The city is also hosting the mausoleum of Moulay Ismaïl, a nice mosque close to the city center.

Another train tride brought my to the city that fascinated me most: Fés. It has the most amazing medina, car-free, located on several hills. A maze with many highlights that are hidden within and that you have to discover by floating through the streets and alleys. You will get lost without a guide, but you’ll find your way out and you’ll be proud afterwards. The combination of crafts, beautiful Islamic colleagues, mosques, ancient gates and smelly tanneries create an interesting mix. Don’t miss climbing one of the hills to get a brilliant view on this hustle and bustle.

And then I took the longest ride: six hours on train to Marrakech. The city of dreams for so many people in central Europe. The city that you typically have in mind first when thinking about Morocco. I enjoyed being there and discovering the destroyed Palais el Badi, the beautiful Palais de la Bahia, the Tombeaux des Saardiens, but it felt like I had all seen it already: the minaret of the Koutoubia, the Islamic colleagues, the medina (in which motorbikes pass like crazy). It is an interesting mix of old and new, but pretty touristy with carriages and the Djemaa el Fna. I rather enjoyed to spend some time in the gardens, the Jardin secret in the medina but also the Jardín Ménara where people spend their weekends between olive trees.

I took my chance to have a long car ride with a local driver through the Atlas mountains to explore the old city of Äit-Ben-Haddou which was used as a backdrop in Game of Thrones, Prince of Persia and Gladiator; but already in 1962 films like Sodom and Gomorrha as well as Lawrence of Arabia. It was amazing to see the landscape that is so very different in the mountains but also to have a glimpse on the desert behind. I should have just reserved more time to go deeper into the desert.

The trip to Morocco was special to me as I again didn’t have time to book it myself and completely relied on a local agency who booked a full service: with drivers in every city and also German-speaking tour guides. I was led through Casablanca by Abderrahmane, a brilliant host knowing everything and answering all odd questions I had. At Rabat I physically challenged a part-time guide who couldn’t understand my joy of walking instead of taking a taxi. At Meknès I met a friendly biologist who knew each and every one; he even stopped to help someone with his car while taking me around. And at Fès a had a more quiet gentleman who was like a living map.

And I also acknowledge that I was a challenge to all these guides as I seemed to be a rather unusual guest travelling alone with lots of questions. It feels like the typical German guest group consists of retired persons booked into cheap hotels, all-inclusive, with the biggest fear of catching diarrhea while on tour. I had the chance to experience such a group as a tour guide at Marrakech used his ‘chance’ and combined my individual tour with such a group having unfortunately a totally different pace. But it also convinced me that being booked into local riads is a really good decision: you’re standing in front of a plain but high house with just a small sign, but once the door is opened you’re entering an oasis making your stay simply amazing. Every time.

Travelling by train was a good decision as well. Yes, you’ll miss some places like Volubilis that don’t have a train station. But the train stations you’ll pass are well equipped and supply you with food and cash. Both, the high-speed train which is TGV-like and the Al Atlas InterCity train are great means of travel. While being at Morocco I for sure also had unpleasent moments: drivers that didn’t appear (one time a guy arrived four hours late), taxis that charge tourist prices, young guys that obtrusivly try to guide you through the medina hoping for some Dirham. But I never felt unsafe, no even in the darkest and narrowest alleys.

What does one need to know? You’ll always need cash. To pay, but also because traditionally everyone receives a tip for a service. If you don’t speak Arabic, you’ll need some French (in the North), sometimes your English does also help. Services like Uber or private taxis are forbidden and the taxi drivers ensure that you can’t take one. But taking a petit taxi within a city is cheap if you negotiate the price upfront. Tajine is the most famous food, but sea food, couscous and bread are important as well. At Morocco, food is often eaten from shared plates and always remember: you’re eating solely with the right hand.

Morocco

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